麻豆社事件

Investigative / Enterprise In-depth examination of a single subject requiring extensive research and resources.

Welcoming Relatives Home: Bringing Back the Bighorn

Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation in Washington State are restoring the lands and species of their traditional ecological community.

From our vantage point in a motorboat on the reservoir known as Franklin D. Roosevelt Lake in eastern Washington, we scan the rocky canyon walls of the Colville Confederated Tribes鈥 Hellgate game reserve for bighorn sheep. Before it was a reservoir, manufactured by the United States government鈥檚 Grand Coulee Dam, this was once a mighty, salmon-rich stretch of the Columbia River that formed the basis of an entire ecosystem鈥攁nd that supported the 12 tribes of the Colville Confederated Tribes since time immemorial. 

Tribal wildlife biologist Rose Piccinini counting bighorn sheep from the Hellgate herd along the Columbia River on the Colville Tribes reservation. These animals were restored to the reservation by the tribes. Photo by David Moskowitz

The boat belongs to Rose Piccinini, the Tribes鈥 Sanpoil district wildlife biologist. She is part of a team that manages the herd of bighorn sheep that the Tribes鈥 wildlife department reintroduced beginning in 2009. She also leads the Tribes鈥 efforts to restore lynx populations back into the ecosystem here. 

Bighorn sheep from the Hellgate herd along the Columbia River on the Colville Tribes reservation. Photo by David Moskowitz

The animals who shared this landscape were once fully integrated into every aspect of tribal members鈥 lives. They harvested bighorn sheep and other game for food, tools, and clothing. Intricate myths, legends, and teachings about the animals were passed down by elders to descendants and bound them to who they were鈥攁nd who, as a result, their descendants came to be. 

But then American settlers brought domesticated European sheep and goats, and with them, diseases that bighorns weren鈥檛 able to recover from. The succession of disease exposures, against which bighorns had no defense, significantly reduced their numbers and made them more vulnerable to other impacts they might have otherwise withstood. Save for a few small pockets in secluded locations, the bighorns died off, and the herds disappeared from the landscape and the lives of the tribes. 

As we crane our necks and squint our eyes upward in the hot midday July sun, shadows reveal more than a dozen bighorn sheep on the north side of the canyon, less than 100 feet above the reservoir. Ewes and lambs weave paths through stalks of mullein, leaving their crescent-shaped tracks in the sand, all the while feeding on shrubs that dot the hillside and scree. Their sharp horns curl back from their heads as their amber eyes attend to their surroundings. Two of the animals walk onto a sandy section of the slope, licking at minerals. They kick up dust and cascades of sand, which form rivulets and accumulate into plumes, slowly fanning down the sandy slope to the shoreline below.

For the 12 tribes of the Confederated Tribes of the Colville, whose reservation is located in north-central Washington State, their ecosystem isn鈥檛 complete without the animals and plants who have long inhabited the land alongside them. Maintaining these relationships of reciprocity in modern times involves the protection and reintroduction of native species, as well as the restoration of their habitats, an ambitious effort that the Tribes鈥 wildlife department has been leading since its inception in the 1970s. 

As the Tribes work together to restore more native species like bighorn sheep and salmon to their lands and waters, they bring collective healing with them. This healing is felt by the people who have long endured cultural trauma from the forces of European and American colonization. It further strengthens their enduring resilience.

The dense subalpine forests of the Kettle Range and other mountains on the Colville Tribe鈥檚 reservation and the lands they co-manage to the north of the current reservation boundary (referred to by the the tribe as 鈥渢he north half鈥) are excellent habitat for Canada lynx and their primary prey, snowshoe hare. Photo by David Moskowitz

Bighorns were among the Tribes鈥 first relatives to be extirpated from the region, but the world-shattering impacts of colonization only intensified henceforth. 

Salmon have always been at the center of the Tribes鈥 culture and, until the mid-20th century, their diet and economy. The fish fed the people and the land with, among other things, the nutrients stored in their bodies. The fish consumed sea life and later carried this sustenance upstream in their migratory journey inland. Tribal representatives cite reports of 20,000 salmon per day, weighing on average 35 pounds each, swimming up the Columbia. With their death and decomposition, the nutrients brought by the salmon in their flesh and bones nourished the forests, prairies, and riparian areas, as well as the coyotes, deer, elk, bighorn sheep, lynx, pronghorn, buffalo, wolves, eagles, and innumerable other beings interconnected within these systems.

The Grand Coulee Dam on the Columbia River, finished in 1942 by the U.S. government, destroyed all anadramous salmon runs above. The dam is a mile wide, 550 feet tall, and backs up the river for more than 150 miles. The river marks the boundary of the Colville Reservation (which lies to the north, in the lower section of photo). Photo by David Moskowitz

But in 1942, the U.S. government built the Grand Coulee Dam and 鈥渆nded a way of life,鈥 according to produced by the Tribes. The dam blocked 1,400 miles of salmon spawning habitat and flooded 56,000 acres of land, as well as the ecosystems that supported whole communities of animals and people. This included critical winter habitat for deer and elk, and areas the Tribes relied on for native food and medicinal plants, all of which were drowned by the government鈥檚 dam construction. 

No fish passage was built then, nor since.

Wildllife manager Richard Whitney oversees all of the Tribes鈥 projects to restore wildlife to their unceded lands. Photo by David Moskowitz

鈥淥vernight, it was shut off,鈥 says Richard Whitney, a member of the Sinixt band of the Colville Confederated Tribes and the Tribes鈥 wildlife department manager, who assumed leadership of the department in 2014. All at once, salmon, who were the Tribes鈥 staple food and the foundation of their culture and economy, were gone.

To survive, the Tribes turned to other species native to the ecosystem, and started a decades-long effort to restore wildlife populations in the area. By 1975, the Tribes had established a wildlife management department with funding from the Bureau of Indian Affairs, in accordance with the Bureau鈥檚 trust responsibilities to the Indigenous peoples with whom it had signed treaties. Elk, Whitney says, have, 鈥渟tepped up to offer themselves so [the Tribes] could persist.鈥 

Today, thanks to the Tribes鈥 reintroduction efforts, their elk herds are strong, going from 481 total elk counted in 2002, to more than double that in 2022. Whitney says elk numbers on the reservation are at a 20-year high, which gives Tribal members additional opportunity for harvest.

Tribal biologist Rose Piccinini releases a Canada lynx onto the reservation, while tribal members look on. Photo by David Moskowitz

With elk reintroduction efforts underway, the Tribes next turned their attention to sharp-tailed grouse in the late 1990s, bighorn sheep in 2005, pronghorns in 2014, followed by lynx, salmon, and buffalo.

Although they have not reintroduced wolves, the Tribes have allowed wolves to recolonize their lands, since evidence of the canines was first identified in 2008. Wolf packs are now managed here at a stable level. 

Bighorn sheep from the Hellgate herd along the Columbia River on the Colville Tribes鈥 reservation. These animals were restored to the reservation by the tribes. Photo by David Moskowitz

The Colville Confederated Tribes鈥 plan to re-establish bighorn sheep began with six translocations that ultimately brought 136 bighorns back to the reservation. Although the herds have continued to suffer from diseases carried by domesticated goats and sheep鈥攚hich are worsened by drought as it concentrates animals around smaller watering areas鈥擶hitney says the population has since grown to more than 250.  

As Whitney assumed leadership of the wildlife division and took over the restoration of bighorn sheep, it was suggested to him that the Tribes sell licenses for trophy bighorn hunts to non-tribal hunters to help pay for more staff. Some state fish and wildlife departments sell hunting licenses via auction or raffle for a number of species considered to be trophies to the highest bidder to generate revenue. For example, in Washington this year,, while .

Whitney was adamantly opposed to the idea, and his reasoning provides insight into the approach he takes to wildlife management: 鈥淭hat animal is worth more to me than a biologist position. That animal has value and it鈥檚 not in dollars,鈥 he says. With so much wildlife management reliant on hunters paying license fees, which in turn fund conservation and management, Whitney says the priorities are off. 鈥淚f it just comes down to money, then you guys are in the wrong business. You鈥檒l never get it right.鈥

In addition to providing sustenance for tribal members, the restoration of native species serves to restore a community of species of which people are an integral part. 鈥淭here鈥檚 a harmony there, and anything that鈥檚 missing breaks that balance,鈥 Whitney says. 鈥淭here鈥檚 still a harmony, but it鈥檚 missing a note here and there.鈥 With each member of the ecological community Whitney鈥檚 wildlife department restores, the whole community sings fuller-voiced. 

This story is the first in a three-part series produced in partnership with , an editorially independent magazine about nature and conservation powered by the California Academy of Sciences. Read part 2 here and part part 3 here.

CORRECTION: This article was updated at 9:19 a.m. PT on Dec. 16, 2023, to clarify that the Tribes are referred to as the Colville Confederated Tribes or the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation, not the Colville Confederacy; and to clarify that Rose Piccinini and Richard Whitney鈥檚 work is part of larger team efforts. Read our corrections policy here.

Share

Rico Moore is a freelance journalist based in Port Townsend, Washington, whose work has been published by High Country News, The Margin, among others. He is also on the board of directors for the Society of Environmental Journalists.
Connect:


Photos by David Moskowitz is a photographer. Moskowitz鈥檚 current work focuses on wildlife and wildlands conservation, with an emphasis on mountain landscapes and the intersection of Indigenous sovereignty and conservation in western North America. He is the photographer and author of three books:聽Wildlife of the Pacific Northwest,聽Wolves in the Land of Salmon,聽and聽Caribou Rainforest. He resides in north-central Washington State. You can check out his work here: davidmoskowitz.net

Related Stories